So, what does one do on Christmas Day in Cairo, let alone on his birthday? Why, go to the souk of course. Roger was hoping to have a reticulated brass sensor made by the brass merchant we met on our first day in Cairo. On the way to the souk, we found a really nice essential oil shop. Was this really an essential need on our part? Apparently yes, as we left with some files of lovely scents whose names we couldn't decipher from their Arabic labels but hey, it's the aromatherapy that matters right? Once in the souk, we found the brass shop shuttered so we consoled ourselves at a shop across the way by buying lamps and ewers from a shop run by one family for 450 years. It consisted of a warren of rooms with a vast array of lamps hanging from the ceilings of each room, compartmentalized by displays of alabaster and brass items, basalt vases and leather stools, crocodile skins and antique leopard skin rugs. A wild and wonderful place it was with antique display cases full of fun trinkets. Roger jovially but unrelentingly bargained with the owner. I'd wished I'd recorded the process but after prolonged banter between the two involving first born sons, a deal was made. Hauling our generously bubble wrapped treasures outside, the merchant jovially asked if we had any grandchildren to barter with, before giving us gifts of camel Christmas tree ornaments, and a fez each to celebrate the holiday. A taxi whisked us back to the hotel where we unburdened and headed off to our next stop: Egyptian Museum.
I've loved the Egyptian Museum for as long as I can remember and to be in it is a dream come true. We only made it through the ground floor middle and new period displays two weeks ago, so we thought a shot at the upstairs was in order but alas, by the time we got inside, there was less than 2 hours till closing time. Where did all the time go? Why, shopping of course. Let's check out this bookstore, let's look at those sheets and towels after all, they're Egyptian Cotten dontchaknow. While trying to explain in English the various size sheets we were looking for, and getting unintelligible Arabic responses, a group gathered and helped translate and we ended up buying a set of sheets each. Hopefully, Rogers king size set will actually be just that and good luck to me too but hey, hope springs eternal. Our pile of sheets and towels was put aside so we could hit the museum unencumbered.
The Egyptian Museum handles vast crowds on a daily basis. Located next to Tehrir Square, where there are no traffic lights, one bobs and weaves through oncoming traffic to reach the museum gate and somehow, we avoid every car that seems determined to hit us. But traffic is not our only impediment to Museum going. We can't quite manage to keep our cameras at bay. There is so much to see in Cairo and to our eyes, it's all gorgeous. But make it to the museum we did and we're blown away by beautiful ancient carved and painted figures and furniture, jewelry and amulets, headpieces and sarcophagi. Room after glorious room, vitrine after glorious vitrine, all filled with treasures. Our trip to the Met two months ago was a great starter for this trip but, as great as the Met is, there's no place like Cairo's Egyptian Museum for the most dynamic and comprehensive collection of ancient objets. We're looking forward to at least one more visit while we're here.
Dinner at the colonial era Windsor topped off the day, and on the way there we enjoyed the fun and often bazaar holiday window decorations for the upcoming Coptic Christmas. As persecuted a minority Egypt's Christians might be, Cairo's merchant tradition means no stones lay unturned on the way to making a buck so, lots of stores made a Christmas effort. And for me, it was a treat to hear Christmas music on the holiday itself, not 3 months beforehand. Roger treated me to a lovely birthday dinner at the Windsor because it serves the nearest thing to a martini that a Muslim country can offer, and for the truly wonderful Arabic taste treats that come out of its kitchen. Oh, and did I mention the bottle of Omar Sharif red we tried from the hotels extensive wine list, one of the lists 3 offerings. Quite tasty actually, and from Egyptian vineyards no less. So, is this any way to celebrate ones Christmas/birthday? Sure worked for us! Merry Christmas!!
I've loved the Egyptian Museum for as long as I can remember and to be in it is a dream come true. We only made it through the ground floor middle and new period displays two weeks ago, so we thought a shot at the upstairs was in order but alas, by the time we got inside, there was less than 2 hours till closing time. Where did all the time go? Why, shopping of course. Let's check out this bookstore, let's look at those sheets and towels after all, they're Egyptian Cotten dontchaknow. While trying to explain in English the various size sheets we were looking for, and getting unintelligible Arabic responses, a group gathered and helped translate and we ended up buying a set of sheets each. Hopefully, Rogers king size set will actually be just that and good luck to me too but hey, hope springs eternal. Our pile of sheets and towels was put aside so we could hit the museum unencumbered.
The Egyptian Museum handles vast crowds on a daily basis. Located next to Tehrir Square, where there are no traffic lights, one bobs and weaves through oncoming traffic to reach the museum gate and somehow, we avoid every car that seems determined to hit us. But traffic is not our only impediment to Museum going. We can't quite manage to keep our cameras at bay. There is so much to see in Cairo and to our eyes, it's all gorgeous. But make it to the museum we did and we're blown away by beautiful ancient carved and painted figures and furniture, jewelry and amulets, headpieces and sarcophagi. Room after glorious room, vitrine after glorious vitrine, all filled with treasures. Our trip to the Met two months ago was a great starter for this trip but, as great as the Met is, there's no place like Cairo's Egyptian Museum for the most dynamic and comprehensive collection of ancient objets. We're looking forward to at least one more visit while we're here.
Dinner at the colonial era Windsor topped off the day, and on the way there we enjoyed the fun and often bazaar holiday window decorations for the upcoming Coptic Christmas. As persecuted a minority Egypt's Christians might be, Cairo's merchant tradition means no stones lay unturned on the way to making a buck so, lots of stores made a Christmas effort. And for me, it was a treat to hear Christmas music on the holiday itself, not 3 months beforehand. Roger treated me to a lovely birthday dinner at the Windsor because it serves the nearest thing to a martini that a Muslim country can offer, and for the truly wonderful Arabic taste treats that come out of its kitchen. Oh, and did I mention the bottle of Omar Sharif red we tried from the hotels extensive wine list, one of the lists 3 offerings. Quite tasty actually, and from Egyptian vineyards no less. So, is this any way to celebrate ones Christmas/birthday? Sure worked for us! Merry Christmas!!
ah......... for your sake i hate to see this remarkable trip winding down. you have done a marvelous job writing the louger tour guide to egypt!
ReplyDeletemarty