There's nothing like an early start when you want to photograph in morning sun so, the alarm was set once plans were made to return to the Middle Easts most significant mosque, Al-Azhar and shoot details of its walls and minarets. A good nights sleep was underway when suddenly dueling marimbas echoed in the room accompanied by flashing light, the disconcerting marimbas calling back and forth to each other like the neighborhood mosques morning call to prayer.........but at 2:25 am. Their loud call came from my "smart" linked iPad & iPhone, with its service plan unable to send or receive calls overseas, go figure. I did not answer. I did not remember falling back asleep either but no doubt did because we set off as planned feeling great and we had an even greater day in spite of never quite reaching Al-Azhar. Along the same route walked yesterday toward the great mosque, we were compelled reshoot many of the same subjects that caught our eye the day before, all begging to be retaken in the sharp focus morning light. Al-Ghuri mosque stopped us in our tracks yesterday and pausing to re-admire it again we gave a further glance at the surrounding silk market structure then the minarets of Bab Zuweila gate came in to view.......and......suddenly we were drawn toward the Medieval tent makers quarter, and the Sabil Of Pasha Mohammed Ali (Ottoman built wash room and local water cistern) and further and further along the narrow medieval road that revealed a varied and delightful collection of architecture. We couldn't stop. That we never quite reached Al-Azhar was Cairos fault not ours!
Lonely Planet is great for the basics, but Cairo's enormous selection of historic sites is mind boggling, as is the guide book's claim that the plethora of Islamic architecture can be seen in half a day. Good luck there. We spent the whole day exploring just one small area overflowing with monumental triumphs and little gems. Climbing the ramparts and minarets of Bab-Zuweila, a city gate gave us a great overview of what we'd seen so far and hope to see in a few weeks upon our return to the city. The height was also great for panorama photos. Restoration work on the gate and wall unearthed bits and pieces of pottery, porcelain, stained glass and more linking the Ottomans contributions to Cairo such as introducing coffee. The porcelain shards on display came from a coffee shop once incorporated into the residential parts of the wall. The surrounding neighborhood believed that a benevolent spirit (Al-Mitwalli) lives in the gate door and offerings and requests were made to him for luck & help. Teeth were often left to Al-Mitwalli while asking for pain relief.
A model ship hangs from the arch over the door, a talisman to secure drinking water for the population and on that score, the Ottomans brought a reliable source of water to the people, especially the poor by constructing throughout Cairo well over 300 Sibel, of which only 70 exist today. The Mohammed Ali Sibel was unique not only with its marble sinks, but its second floor elementary school but hey, unique is in the eye of the beholder. Are inlaid marble walls in a mosque unique, with ivory and turquoise details? 15th century gilt carved beams and stained glass windows? Are Corinthian columns next to arabesque wooden window grills next to Romanesque doorways unique? Every structure tells a story about the history of those who ruled this city and left their mark on it by building and rebuilding its structures, and its all quite compelling.
Setting early this time of year, the sun drops quickly over the desert anyway so we typically quit photographing before dusk, find a place for coffee, and ponder the day's explorations and either forget to eat or just grab a falafel to carry us over till dinner which may not come because we need the time to write and sort pictures. Located in that transition zone of Islamic to European architecture, our neighborhood is relatively quiet but gets busy at night. There are sidewalk plazas with tea shops or little restaurants away from the bustling shopping streets. A tiny mosque might be jammed in among the stalls, shops, and outdoor restaurants or if there is no mosque, there might be a spread of prayer rugs on the sidewalk for those who answer the call to prayer. The people are so genuine and gracious. And once we get in our wrought iron open wire lift of the 4th floor pension, hit our room and take off our shoes, there's usually no turning back. Especially with the incredible Cairo Museum planned for tomorrow. Talk about sweet dreams!
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